Belgrade

Burgeoning Drag Scene Pushes Boundaries in Macho Serbia

Balkan Insight | Burgeoning Drag Scene Pushes Boundaries in Macho Serbia

This article was published in Balkan Insight on May 14, 2019. by Monica Starr SIT Fall 2018 Denison University Socially conservative Serbia might not seem a natural stage for gender-bending performance artists – but a new generation of drag kings and queens is determined to make its presence felt. When Zoe Gudovic isn’t fighting for women’s …

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zeleni venac market Paul Rochford

A Refreshing Tradition: The Green Markets of Belgrade

by Paul Rochford SIT Spring 2019 Georgetown University BELGRADE – Long sections of green fence surround rows of tables brightly decorated with hundreds of varieties of fresh fruits, vegetables, beans, and cheeses. Zeleni Venac, one of about thirty outdoor “green markets” in the city of Belgrade, is a unique landmark of the city’s food culture. …

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Belgrade Insight | Taking a Ride to a Forgotten State in Belgrade

This article was published in BIRN’s bi-weekly newspaper Belgrade Insight on December 23, 2018, and in Balkan Insight. by Sonja Borgmann SIT Fall 2018 Carleton College A new tour of Belgrade is designed to give tourists a taste of what it was like to live in Yugoslavia. An oddly rectangular and pumpkin-colored car lurches down …

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Belgrade’s Best Beans

Belgrade’s Best Beans

by Monica Starr SIT Fall 2018 Denison University BELGRADE – In Belgrade’s historic Vracar district, on lively Njegoseva street, one can find Zrno, a local kafic, or modern coffee house. Zrno, meaning bean in Serbian, balances modern brass lamps with artful canvases made of industrial coffee bean bags. Small groups of people chat and smoke …

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Finding Serbia’s Meatless Cuisine

Finding Serbia’s Meatless Cuisine

by Sophia Tulp SIT Spring 2018 Ithaca College BELGRADE — As Karadjordjeva street merges into Pariska, at the edge of Belgrade’s Kalemegdan Park with its millennia-old fortress, a hidden restaurant sits on the other side of a graffiti-covered apartment building that has seen better days. Inside, chefs take creative liberty, creating vegetarian food in a …

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Balkan Insight | Serbia’s Stateless Roma Struggle for Visibility

This story was first published in Balkan Insight on January 9, 2018. by Claire Taylor SIT Fall 2017 Occidental College On a cold, rainy day, seven Roma women gather in their children’s education centre in the Vojni Put settlement in Belgrade. They sit around a small table in child-sized chairs to talk about their pasts and futures. …

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Making Belgrade a Home

by Hoi Mun Yee SIT Spring 2017 Drake University BELGRADE, Australian Philomena O’Brien had just celebrated her 39th birthday in Budapest and was on her way to Iran when her train unexpectedly left earlier than scheduled. Stranded, with some scepticism she took the advice of a booking clerk to take the next train to Belgrade …

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The Liquor of Fruit and Fire

by Finnian James SIT Spring 2017 Lake Forest College BELGRADE, Serbs will tell you, rakija (rakiya) puts all other liquor to shame. Many love this fierce potion as much as they fear it – and with good reason as it can easily reach 65 percent alcohol content. Rakia tastes sweet and burns your throat with …

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Mind the Pothole: Belgrade by Bike

by Jose Bernardo Reyes Facio SIT Fall 2016 Lake Forest College BELGRADE, As Vladimir Martinovic bikes through the streets of Belgrade, people randomly greet him like a lifelong friend. Offering tips-only bike tours is an unusual way of making a living, but one that has won him many friends among cyclists, activists and entrepreneurs all …

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Serbia’s Pride Served With Fries

by Bernardo Reyes Facio SIT Fall 2016 Lake Forest College BELGRADE, The restaurant “Stari Beograd“, Serbian for “Old Belgrade,” is a gem for food lovers hidden in East Belgrade. Decades-old editions of “Politika”, the oldest newspaper in Serbia, are posted on the restaurant walls, bearing headlines like ‘Great Yugoslavia’ and ‘The Year of the Reform.’ …

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